Saffron & Pistachio Iced Cream / Kesar Pista Kulfi

by Cyrus Todiwala from Modern Indian: Small Plates, Big Flavours, Fabulous Feasts (White Lion Publishing)

Photography: Haarala Hamilton

Kulfi, for me, is Indian iced cream rather than ice cream, as when it was originally developed in the 16th-century, it was hard to aerate the mixture, so instead it was left to set solid. Aerating is much easier at home now avoid ice crystals. This recipe celebrates India’s most popular kulfi flavour, best known as kesar pista, or saffron and pistachio. You will need to wait overnight for the kulfi to set, but your patience will reward you.

Serves 6–8

Ingredients

500ml (17 ½ fl oz) double (heavy) cream

1 x 400ml (14fl oz) tin of evaporated milk

100g (3 ½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar

1 tsp saffron (ideally Iranian)

250ml (8 ¾ fl oz) clotted cream

1 tsp vanilla extract (optional)

180g (6 ¼ oz) pistachios, chopped

5 baby rose buds, petals only (ideally Iranian)

1 tsp ground green cardamom

Wafer biscuits, to serve (optional)

Method

Pour the double cream into a large bowl, cover and chill in the fridge, along with a 23cm (9in) cake tin (if using springform, line it with cling film/plastic wrap).

Pour the evaporated milk and sugar into a small saucepan and place it over a medium heat.

Bring to the boil, stirring regularly with a spatula, ensuring you scrape every corner of the pan (as the contents will catch quickly).

Reduce the heat to a simmer, continuing to stir, and cook until the sugar has dissolved and the milk has reduced by a third.

Gently rub the saffron between your thumb and your middle and index fingers to break up the strands and crumble them into the simmering milk. Continuing to stir, let the mixture thicken and reduce slightly.

Transfer the mixture to a bowl and allow it to cool completely. Whisk in the clotted cream until smooth.

Remove the chilled double cream from the fridge and whisk to thick, soft peaks. You can use a hand whisk or electric beaters but be sure not to over whip, as it will split.

Pour the saffron-infused milk and clotted cream into the whipped cream, along with the vanilla (if using) three quarters of the pistachios and all the rose petals.

Beat to combine, adding a little cardamom powder at a time, to taste.

Pour the mixture into the chilled cake tin and sprinkle with the remaining pistachios. Cover and freeze overnight until completely set.

Five minutes before serving, remove the kulfi from the freezer.

Scoop it or cut it into thick slices and serve it wedged between wafer biscuits, if you’d like.

TIP      To enhance the flavour of this kulfi, make your own ground green cardamom. Toast 1 tablespoon of whole green cardamom in a preheated 110°C fan/130°C/250°F/Gas 1 oven for 20 minutes. Cool, deseed and grind the seeds to a fine powder using a pestle and mortar or coffee grinder. Leftover spice can be kept in a small airtight container in the fridge. For even more flavour, toast the whole, shelled pistachios at the same time before cooling and chopping.

Drinks tasted on air, alongside the dish: