Devilled Pork Steaks
by Orlando Murrin from Two’s Company (Ryland Peters & Small)
Photography: Clare Winfield
Pork steaks slow-roasted under a crunchy mustard and cornflake crust are especially tender and tasty. This method was pioneered by the ingenious test chefs at Cooks’ Illustrated, and yes, that oven temperature is correct. I like to serve these with a squeeze of lemon and – for a retro touch – cauliflower cheese and any green vegetable in season.
If you baulk at buying a lifetime supply of cornflakes (why are the boxes so enormous?), you can use panko crumbs instead – brown them in a little butter first – or pretzels, whizzed to crumbs in a food processor. If you use loin pork chops and they arrive with the fat intact – don’t waste it. See Trick of the Trade to learn how to convert it into super-crunchy crackling for now or another occasion.
Ingredients
2 pork steaks or chops (150–175g each)
a little oil
1 small garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp each Dijon and wholegrain mustard
½ tsp dry mustard powder
½ tsp sugar
a splash of Tabasco
about 20 g cornflakes (2 handfuls), crushed by squeezing in your hand
½ tsp paprika or smoked paprika
a pinch of crushed chilli flakes
lemon wedges, to serve (optional)
Method
1 Wipe the pork steaks dry with a piece of kitchen paper towel. Brush or wipe one side of each with a little oil (to prevent sticking) and lay oil-side down on a rack on a small rimmed baking tray or sheet. Mix the garlic, mustards, sugar and Tabasco with plenty of salt and pepper in one small bowl. Mix the cornflakes, paprika and chilli flakes in another.
2 Brush or smear the sides and tops with the mustard mixture (I use a small rubber spatula), then spoon the cornflake mixture on top and press on lightly. Don’t worry too much about the sides.
3 Roast the steaks at 120ºC fan/140ºC/280ºF for 40–45 minutes, till tender when poked with a knife and the meat is cooked. If you have a digital thermometer, the meat should read about 60ºC/140ºF. Allow to rest for 5–10 minutes before serving, with lemon wedges, if you like.
TRICK OF THE TRADE
Pork loin chops sometimes arrive with a thick rubbery band of fat and skin running down one side. Sharpen your knife before cutting this away. This strip of fat and skin, ideally about 1 cm/. inch thick, makes marvellous pork crackling. I put the strips in the freezer till I need them – you can roast them from frozen.
Put a piece of baking parchment in a smallish rimmed baking tin or pan, then lay on the well seasoned strips. Lay another piece of parchment on top, then another smaller baking tin on that, so the pork strips are weighed down and lying flat.
Bake at 180ºC fan/200ºC/400ºF for 50 minutes, turning the strips at half time.
Serve sprinkled with plenty of flaky salt and (chef’s tip) a light sprinkling of sugar.
Drinks tasted on air, alongside the dish:
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